Step One -- All cyclists run this article by Dave Balkin onto
your computer printer (see printer friendly button above and to the
right). Step Two – Make sure you have the three items needed to fix
your flat. Step Three – Fold the printed paper and always carry it with
you while biking. Step Four – Practice taking those danged wheels off
and on.
About the Great Balkini
Fixing a flat on the road is the same as learning a new computer
program; the information in the manual is useful for reference, but you
have to do it to get it. So first comes the manual and then some
user-friendly real world advice.
The Equipment:
- 3 plastic tire levers that nest together for convenience;
- a spare tube;
- an inflation device, either a frame-mounted pump, or my strong preference, CO2 cartridges and a dispensing valve.
-
- The Technique
With the wheel off the bike, take the flat end of a tire lever and
pry it under the tire bead. The first one is the hardest and requires
some hand strength to bend the tire away from the rim. The other end of
the lever is notched and that fits into a spoke, so it remains in place.
Take the second lever and do the same a few inches from the first.
Take the third lever and pry the bead away from the rim, sliding the
lever along the rim. The tire will then come half off. There is no need
to completely remove the tire. although it’s no big deal to do so at
that point.
Pull the tube out and discard responsibly. Then examine the tire by
feel to make sure there is nothing inside or out that will puncture the
replacement. Examine the inside of the rim to make sure the rim tape is
in place. Sometimes it as moved. A spoke sticking through may be the
culprit. This isn’t rocket science. A thorough look will reveal exactly
what happened.
Slightly inflate the replacement tube and fit it into the tire.
Place the valve stem in the hole and then, using your hands, work as
much of the tire as possible back on to the rim. It goes easily at
first, but in most cases there are a few tight inches of bead remaining
that may require use of a tire lever. If so, CAREFULLY pry this last
part back over the rim. The only tricky part is not pinching the new
tube in the process.
Inflate slightly to make sure the tube is not peeking through any
part of the bead, and when everything is as it should be, inflate the
tire to riding pressure. Put the wheel back on the bike. Life is good.
The Real-World Part
All bikes come with quick-release skewers, but taking wheels off and
putting them back on is something you definitely have to practice if
you intend to be self-sufficient. Among the things that make bike shops
cool is their willingness to not only show you how this is done, but to
watch you practice.
Rear tires tend to go flat more often and dealing with the chain,
cluster and derailleur that are in the way, sorry to say, takes
practice. It is also messy and for those who have read the maintenance section underscores
the value of dry paraffin-based chain lubricant. Until you do the wheel
a few times, it can be frustrating, so best not to add that angst to an
emergency.
How you carry this stuff is up to you. A small bag under the seat is
the standard solution. The front wheel is much easier. Just release the
brakes so the tire clears, flip the lever and then unscrew the skewer
enough so it clears the notches built into the fork. That is to prevent
the wheel from falling off in the event it wasn’t put on properly to
begin with.
Those little notches are an annoying pain as the once automatic
skewer system now has to be adjusted for tightness every time a front
wheel is removed. It’s a relatively recent government requirement put
in place to protect stupid, careless, people. Of course it doesn’t,
since once underway, the wheel will still come flying off if not put on
correctly. It is not one of OSHA’s more enlightened regulations.
Reverse the process when the wheel is ready to go back on.
I prefer air cartridges over frame pumps is because takes real
strength and concentration to inflate a tire to riding pressure with a
floor pump. A hand pump is even more challenging since the thin, short
tube and 85 to 100 PSI (pounds per square inch) are not made for each
other. The back pressure is enormous and the small volume of air
expelled with each stroke makes this s a chore beyond the ability of
those who haven’t done it a few times and therefore know it is actually
possible.
Before you buy one of those have the shop people show you how they
do it. Then you will see first-hand how much effort is required.
Waiting until the moment of truth without seeing a demo is unadvisable.
It is easy for an inexperienced hand to break the pump or a delicate
valve stem rendering the new tube useless. Trust me, the flat tire is
frustrating enough.
Presta valves have an external valve core that need to be unscrewed
before inflation and then tightened afterwards. They come on all adult
road bikes because only they hold the higher pressures required. Even
after successfully inflating a tube, it is essential to wait a moment
before re-tightening, since the stem is warm from friction and the
valve core is soft enough to be broken by handling.
Cartridges also require care. It is extremely helpful to burn a
couple first in order to get the feel for how much "air" (CO2) the
valve releases. Work SLOWLY, very slowly. That’s they key. A sudden
rush can blow a hole in the tube. There is more than enough CO2 in a
cartridge to over inflate a tire, so again, be careful. The cartridge
cannot be used more than once because the dispensing valve will not
hold the remaining contents for very long. Cartridges are cheap
considering what they do for you.
Patch kits are a thing of the past and only useful in a super
emergency such as two flats on the same ride. The high pressure and
normal heat build-up of a tire/tube wreak havoc on the cold patch
process. Done right these patches, ideally, last for the remainder of a
ride, but that’s about it.
The best advice is to look carefully to see what is on the road
ahead. Religiously avoid all debris. That means not riding on the
extreme right hand side where the debris accumulates. In some 5000
miles of riding I get one or two flats a year, and then only because I
space out and ride over something that should have been seen and
avoided.
My other best advice, if all this seems daunting, is to ride with
someone who knows how to change a flat. Cell phones are surprisingly
not the best alternative. Reception can be sketchy in remote areas
where riding is ideal. Finding someone ready, willing and able to comes
pick you up or fix that flat on demand may be tougher still. And in
order to call in your position, you have to know where you are.
So copy this article, and when you next go flat, I’ll guide you through the steps again. Just don’t call.
SEE: All past BIKE columns
Copyright (c) 2005 by David Balkin. All rights reserved.